Showing posts with label camping. Show all posts
Showing posts with label camping. Show all posts

Tuesday, 22 November 2016

Setting up exercise routines under the Namibian sun

Keeping up your workout routine (or establishing one like we’re trying to once again do) in Namibia is not that easy. You only have a few hours in the morning during which you’re able to do any kind of activity, partake on guided tours, see sights etc. and after that for about seven hours the only thing you’re able to perform is a) sit in an air-conditioned car and move from one place to another + occasionally open the window and take a pic, b) sit in an air conditioned bar and have a cool beer, or c) just sit somewhere in the shade. After 5 pm it slowly starts to get tolerable again, and then you’re up for some cooking, pitching the tent and enjoying the sunset which occurs around 7 pm, after which it’s pitch black (except when there’s a full moon). Some nights you might enjoy the evening by hanging out with some new friends from the campsite, and around 9 pm everybody’s asleep. So, not so much room for exercising… We decided though that we can’t just sit in a car for four weeks and as you might have guessed it, we started to take advantage of the first hours of the day – between 6 and 9 am, when the sun has just risen, it’s nice and cool to go for a morning run (don’t get me wrong, during these two weeks spent here when writing this, we have been running three times. But still, it’s more than at home ;)

At Namtib Biosphere Reserve there was a great opportunity to start our new, active vacationing. A 4 km hike around the area. Boy was that tough.

 

Well actually it was very nice, and after that we were happy to spend the next five hours in the car until we stopped at Betta Camp Site for some gasoline (for the car) and burgers (for us). Yummy.

Don't forget where you parked your car
The next night we spent at a pleasant Hammerstein Lodge, trying to get some work done by using their (at that moment non-existent) Wi-Fi. Luckily we had our own prepaid with data, it worked smoothly every 15 minutes or so. Buying an MTC prepaid has been one of the best investments we've done here! All the bookings and communication in general is easier by phone as replying to emails has been so and so. We chose the Aweh O-Yeah package, which you can customise to fit your own needs in terms of the amount of data, minutes and SMS. What's different to a regular prepaid is that your bundles are valid only for seven days and the unused balance is discarded by the end of the week. It's also good to bear in mind that you're unable to top-up your current package in the middle of the week, so choose wisely. 

After work we were happy to spend some time at the pool, and got to our tent-bed early. We didn’t get too much sleep though, since it was freezing at night. In some parts of Namibia, you can really feel the desert climate – crazy hot during the day and not so much during the night. Well, luckily we had each other and our summer sleeping bags (+ woolly hats, just in case).

This little Gemsbok was keeping us company at our Hammerstein campsite. These antelopes can survive for months on the scant water they derive from the plants they eat.
The next day it was time to head towards the famous dunes of Sossusvlei. While still in Windhoek we had pre-booked one night from the Sesriem Camp Site, since it is the only campsite located inside the park gates, thus giving the guests a one-hour head start in the morning at 5 am to start driving towards Sossusvlei, 65 km from Sesriem. Everyone staying outside the park gates will be let in at 6.15 when the sun rises, so by pre-booking we wanted to guarantee our spot in the 5 am lineup to the dunes. However, when we got in, it came clear that we had already made our booking to a fully booked campsite, and were thus given a leftover camping spot with no electricity. This was otherwise totally fine, but our fridge didn’t quite like it. Luckily we had a nice German couple staying next to us, and we able to borrow their electrical outlet for the night. So no rotten food, yay.

It was again one of those crazy hot 45℃ days you could only sit at the camp site bar and do nothing. Although we did do something – planned our itinerary and booked the stays for Etosha. The Etosha National Park is the number one place where it’s still crowded in November, and we were already quite late with our bookings. An interesting thing happened though: Etosha is administered by NWR (Namibia Wildlife Resorts), as are numerous other campsites and lodges around the country, including the Sesriem Camp. We called to make the reservations for three nights inside the national park, but were disappointed to hear that at Okaukuejo all the campsites were already fully booked. After doing the other bookings over the phone (or so we thought), we were told to send an e-mail instead to confirm them. So we went to the website and there was an online booking site you can use to book and pay for your accommodation. We started checking the wanted dates and campsites, and ahoy, there magically still was room in the fully booked campsite at Okaukuejo. We figured after we’d paid for the stay, they need to let us in. Well, to be seen.

Be careful not to spend too much time in the sun.



For the evening we had a lovely hike up one of the dunes close to the campsite, the Emil Dune, where we went to catch the sunset. The climb to the dyne was longer than expected and every time we thought we had reached the top, there was a higher point looming behind. Watching the sun set in the distance, it was a lovely way to end the day. And as you can see, our sport vacation just kept going on: a one-hour hike up the dune, two beers on the top and 45-minute “run” back down to get to the camp before they close the gates at eight. It was about time to start preparing dinner after that.



Saturday, 19 November 2016

The long drive from Windhoek to Fish River Canyon

It wasn't too easy to get started with our trip: after collecting the car and the camping gear, we still had to do quite a lot of grocery shopping at Superspar in order to survive the upcoming nights in the desert. In addition, Timo left the keys to our Airbnb-home in his pocket - luckily we noticed this while still in Windhoek and not 650 km later ;) Since it was already 1.30 pm when we got going, the plan was to drive through Mariental and Keetmanshoop all the way to the Fish River Canyon during one day. Luckily you really can't say that there is too much traffic in Namibia's main roads (note to mum; I wasn't speeding too much). Even an hour could pass without seeing any cars - the only thing moving were the numerous animals we saw next to the road, or sometimes crossing it.


We spent our first night at Hobas camping site at the helm of Fish River Canyon. As we started our drive a little bit later than planned, we missed the sunset at the Canyon, but driving to the sunset in a road filled with pot holes and animals lurking around was an experience of its own. We finally arrived at Hobas Camp site way after dark - tired, but excited. The camp site was lively, and there were all the essentials we needed. They even recycle - yea!




   You don't need daylight to pitch a tent

The next morning we got to explore the wonders of Fish River Canyon - at 7 am the temperature was still reasonable to walk around. The Canyon is the largest in Africa, its gigantic ravine is almost 160 km long and in some places 550 meters deep. There is also a hiking trail that tests your physical condition, but due to the risk of flooding and extremely hot summer temperatures reaching 48°C in the day and 30°C at night it was not a possibility for us... oh, all excuses :P


The Fish River Canyon is roughly 650 millions years old


Thursday, 17 November 2016

Getting ready for the road

On Tuesday 8th of November it was finally time to begin our road trip. During the planning phase we had thought of all the different options: guided safaris (very pricey!), teaming up with other travelers, combining bus transport and self-drive etc. But the most convenient, best-suited and the most recommended option for us was to rent a car for the whole 21 days, since we wanted to see the whole country in all its glory.  

Different forums offer a lot of advice and recommendations for self-drive-safari cars, and the vehicle options vary from a regular Polo to a massive 4x4. It was quite a puzzle to try and figure out what kind of a car would suit our needs the best. We’d do just fine with a Polo if we would stick to the main roads and tourist attractions like Fish River Canyon and Sossusvlei, but the moment we want some privacy and to do some camping in the more remote areas, a bigger 4x4 is way more comfy and safe. Some roads are filled with soft sand and are super bouncy, so driving these roads with a Polo would take an eternity (Obs! We did meet a lovely Swedish couple in Sossusvlei who had a Volgswagen Polo, and they had been very happy doing their trip with it ;). But in the end if you're going for a longer trip and do not want to feel every bump in the road, we wouldn’t recommend the cheapest option. We decided to rent a 2x4 SUV via rentalcars.com, since we found a good deal where insurance and a second driver were included in the price. Usually you need to pay extra for tyre and windshield coverage, and in these driving conditions it's wise to have them covered, since the gravel roads are usually not the best buds with your car. 

Enough room for two?
On Tuesday morning we packed our bags and got ready to get the car from a local Hertz office at 10 am. It's good we were there 30 minutes early, since the renting part was a bit of a hassle. Service at this office was straight from comedy and luckily we got a translation from a Dutch couple. In the end no SUVs were available so we ended up getting a huge Toyota Hilux 4x4 with manual transmission. This was very nice since it's not enough of a challenge to drive on the wrong side of the road with an automatic transmission… 




All the essentials for a good desert dinner
Getting ready for the road trip in Namibia requires a bit more than just the car. Unfortunately for a budget-cautious traveler the accommodation could turn out to be a small concern as well. For our daily budget (which was already way beyond our calculations after having rented the car), lodges and bungalows were too expensive (around 800-1500 N$ per person per night), so we chose to rent camping gear. There are a few companies in Windhoek that provide services for renting camping gear, but ended up using Adventure Camping Hire, and for a very pleasant total cost we got a tent, hiker's mats (we had sleeping bags with us), an all-inclusive kitchen set with gas etc. and a fridge for the car to provide us with cool refreshments and fresh produce during our trip. In addition headlamps, a showel, firelighters, a braai grid, biodegradable dishwashing liquid, chairs and a table are quite essential to bring with you even though many of the camp sites are well equipped. And so we were ready to go!